Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Wheels and wildlife in Wellington

Started in 1999, Zealandia is the world's first fully-fenced urban wildlife sanctuary. Located ten minutes from the city centre on the edge of the suburb of Karori, it's easy to get to by car, public transport, or even on foot.

While there you can see a wide range of native birds, from Tui to saddleback to the Kaka bush parrot, as well as Wekas and tuatara, wetas and geckos.

Pride of place must go to the sanctuary's resident population of endangered Little Spotted Kiwi. Forty birds were released into the area in 2000 - the first of the species back on the mainland in over a century - and numbers now exceed 100.

Zealandia's 30-plus kilometres of bush tracks can be explored at your own pace, however the best way to see the wildlife is to take one of the sanctuary's tours.

These come in three options - the Taster Tour, a one-hour highlights package; the Escape Tour, a two-hour outing to see some of the country's most endangered species including the tuatara; and the Nocturnal Tour, a two-hour night experience which takes in the dusk chorus and sets out to find some of the resident Kiwi, along with tuataras, wetas and glow worms.

The sanctuary also has free hosted walks on the last Saturday of the month (you pay for admission only).

Of all the tours, the Nocturnal Tour is especially good as there's something special about hearing a Kiwi call to its mate, and knowing it's only about 20 or so metres from you in the bush.

Starting 30 minutes before dusk, guides lead you in a large loop of the lower sanctuary, from the historic pumping station, around the side of the lower reservoir, reaching the upper dam before heading back to reach the visitor centre two hours later.

Setting off at sunset gives you a good chance to see many of the 'day' birds flying back to their roosts, and hear the loud chorus of birdcalls as the light fades. On our tour, large Kaka bush parrots squawked as they settled down for the night while tuis darted about catching midges on the wing.

Heading on into the dark, tour groups are equipped with special red-light torches that don't disturb the wildlife. Our group stops to see one of the sanctuary's Tuataras before heading further into the bush to try our luck in seeing a Kiwi.

Walking in the dark, our guides pick out the calls of Kiwis and the tour stops to listen, and search with torchlight to see if they can spot one of them. The haunting cry of the male bird which echoes through the bush is surprisingly loud, and though the guides can't find him, it's enough just to hear the call.

The Kiwi calls again as we make our way down the track, rounding the corner to a see thousands of glow worms covering most of the sides of the small valley the track follows. The light from the red torches means you can have a good look at the intricate hammocks and sticky traps the worms create without disturbing them.

Finishing the tour at the visitor centre, we see the construction of Zealandia's large new visitor and education centre. Due to open in 2010, the facility will house a base for the tours, exhibitions, a gift store and a cafe.

* Zealandia is open every day except Christmas from 10am - 5pm, (with last admissions at 4pm). Night tours run seven days a week begin 30 minutes before sunset. Admission charges are - adults (17+) $14, children $6, with a family concession rate of $34. Night tour charges are $60 for adults and $30 for children, with a minimum age of 12 years. You can check out special deals at Zealandia's website, www.visitzealandia.com.

ACCOMMODATION - TRAVELODGE WELLINGTON

The Travelodge Wellington has recently re-opened after an $11 million refurbishment, and now boasts an expanded 132 rooms of four-star accommodation.

One of the tests of a good hotel is its location, and the Travelodge, being in the heart of the CBD on Plimmer Steps, is just a stone's throw from most of Wellington's attractions, as well as a myriad of bars and cafes.

Rooms come with either king-sized or twin beds and an en suite bathroom, and are well equipped - microwaves are a useful feature, as well as in-room internet (wireless also available), LCD TVs and individually controlled air conditioning, as well as an in-room safe.

There's even irons and ironing boards for clothes that need a touch up after travelling in a suitcase.

Room service is available, and the reception is manned around the clock.

While most of the rooms have views of the city, for just $20 you can upgrade to a room with harbour view, subject to availability.

The hotel also has a convenient restaurant - Steps - for breakfast and dinner, with a $23 buffet breakfast (or you can opt for this to be part of your accommodation with the Travelodge's bed and breakfast deal.)

There is also a gym, and dry cleaning and computer facilites, and overnight parking is available for $20.

* Rates for rooms start at $99 a night and come in packages where you can select the option of bed and breakfast, or a harbour view. See www.travelodge.com.au/locations/features.aspx?hid=957 for further details.

EATING OUT/ NIGHTLIFE

Wining and dining is an essential part of Wellington life and with over 300 cafes, restaurants and bars you're pretty spoiled for choice.

The main areas for restaurants and bars are centred on Courtenay Place and Cuba Mall/Cuba Street, however there are quite a few establishments now located around the waterfront - and, an added advantage, all are within walking distance of each other.

Family dining is well catered for with restaurants like gourmet pizza house One Red Dog, Wagamama on the waterfront, The Flying Burrito Brothers in Cuba St, or Wellington institution Monsoon Poon just off Courtenay Place in Blair St.

Logan & Brown, also in Cuba St, and Shed 5 on the waterfront provide a taste of fine dining, while Sahara, in Courtenay Place, provides excellent Middle Eastern cuisine and kebabs.

Lounging in a cafe for weekend breakfast or brunch is almost a requirement for many Wellingtonians, and once again the number of choices are large.

Cuba St is a great place to go as you can walk from the bottom to the top and pick the cafe you like the best, from Felix near the Town Hall, to Floriditas and Ernesto just past the intersection with Ghuznee St, ending with the legendary Midnight Espresso and funky Fidel's in upper Cuba St.

Wellington has an almost inexhaustible amount of bars, with most concentrated around Courtenay Place.

Worth a look are the Malthouse in Courtenay Place with its range of approximately 80 beers, 70's retro cocktail lounge Motel Bar in Forresters Lane off Tory St, Jet Bar with its underground section on the corner of Courtenay Place and Allen St, and, well known among locals, Mighty Mighty, in Cuba St.

* The writer went to Formula 1 - The Great Design Race courtesy of Te Papa and on the ZEALANDIA nocturnal tour courtesy of ZEALANDIA, and was a guest of Travelodge Wellington.

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